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Flooring
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Wood flooring in a humid environment
Created
: 7/23/2006
Updated:
7/23/2006
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Q
I live in a home with evaporative cooling in Tucson Az. This means that the humidity in the house ranges from less than 10% during the part of the year when the cooler is not used to probably 80% or more in August. You can really tell because all the doors swell, etc. I was researching wooden flooring, and a sales person at a big box store said that wooden floors should not be used in homes with evaporative coolers. This seemed to make sense due to the wood swelling, but then I read about full floating floors and I wondered if they could be used. In my application, the flooring system would be installed over concrete, and the concrete is dry and passes a moisture test. I a curious to know if any of the modern wooden flooring systems can be recommended for use in my home.
A
A floating floor would be an excellent choice or even a floating subfloor (if you have the room). A floating subfloor utilizes one (preferrably two) staggered sheets of underlayment (preferrably plywood 1/2" or thicker -- 5 plies or more). In the single-layer system the sheets of plywood are cut lengthwise into 6" to 1-foot wide strips and set diagonally (from the direction the wood flooring is to be situated)on top of a layer or two of visqueen. The visqueen serves as a vapor barrier. Overlap or tape the seams. I have seen installers used strips up to 24 inches wide but I don't recommend it. The surface hardwood floor is nailed directly to the strips of plywood. The strips of plywood are floating on top of the visqueen and concrete slab substructure.
In the two-layer system, the two sheets are floated on top of the visqueen/concrete. The first layer is run the same direction as the surface floor will be running (better yet diagonally to it -- except there is a lot more waste with the diagonal profile since wall lines will cause cuts that will result in lots of triangular waste pieces). Each section of plywood is stagger to the next so that ends overlap opposing ends half the length of the plywood sheet. The second or top layer of plywood is run 90 degrees to the bottom or first layer exactly the same way so that none of the seams of plywood overlap. If you are using 4 X 8 sheets of plywood and you could see through both layers, you would see a whole series of 2-foot square seams. The two layers are glued and screwed together with a wood flooring mastic and wood screws. The result is a solid yet flexable floating subfloor ready to have your surface wood flooring nailed and/or glued to it.
In your instance I would recommend quartersawn flooring (unless you go with an engineered product). I like to use solid flooring whenever possible but yours' is an instance where an engineered product might serve better since it provides a litte more stability through the rigors of movement from moisture fluxuations. Quartersawn flooring will substantially reduce the movement as well and allow you to go with a more standard wood flooring plank product.
Another type product that would work well in your instance is a patterned floor (e.g. herringbone or parquet).
Other than that, you might think about controlling the humidity in your home to help mitigate your changing moisture circumstances.
My son lived in the Tucson area for many years. He experienced no problems with several different homes he had there utilizing solid wood flooring as I decribed it above. His biggest concern was with the termites you have there.
I wish you luck with your project.
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Transmitted: 4/2/2025 10:02:12 PM
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